Vacation / Travel Supplement

Block Island: Island in North Atlantic preserves its historic charm

As the Block Island Ferry nears the dock at Old Harbor, tourists can see the historic National Hotel and other clapboard buildings that line the coast. The island became part of the colony of Rhode Island in 1672, and was originally named “New Shoreham.” A Dutch map that dates back to 1685 identifies the island as “Adriaen Blocks Eylant” for Dutch explorer Adrian Block. (Photo by Mary Ann Wyand)

By Mary Ann Wyand

BLOCK ISLAND—“No man is an island,” insisted British poet and clergyman John Donne, but it’s certainly fun to vacation on a small land mass surrounded by water.

When most people think of island getaways, their thoughts turn to fancy destination resorts in warm weather climates. The beautiful Hawaiian islands are popular with tourists as are the Florida Keys and other Caribbean locations.

So are scenic Chincoteague Island National Wildlife Refuge and Assateague Island National Park off the coast of Virginia, where wild horses roam freely, or trendy Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket Island near the Massachusetts shoreline.

But few people probably think about vacationing on a small isle that is an hour’s ferry ride from tiny Rhode Island.

An island in the North Atlantic Ocean doesn’t sound all that warm and inviting, even during the summer months.

But when my daughter, Joan, told me about her fun weekend with friends on Block Island last summer, I suggested that we spend a day there last August when I visited her in Providence.

We boarded the Block Island Ferry at Point Judith, about an hour’s drive from Providence, and watched the crew load cars, bicycles and freight on the boat.

A sunny sky and warm ocean breeze greeted us on deck as we leaned against the railing and enjoyed the feeling of waves rocking the boat on the 12-mile trip.

Soon we were docking at the historic 9.7-square-mile-long island, and its New England charm beckoned us to explore Old Harbor, a scenic town with gray clapboard buildings, then walk along the sometimes rocky shoreline.

My daughter brought her bicycle along, and I rented one on the island at a shop that also offered maps and motorbikes.

First, I took a picture of the famous statue of Rebecca, depicted holding an urn upside down because the Women’s Christian Temperance Union barred alcohol on the island in the late 1800s.

After buying fresh fruit, cheese and other picnic items at a grocery store, we set out for the labyrinth and lighthouse on the north end of the island at Sandy Point.

Joan knew her way around the island so we didn’t get lost, but I was glad to stop for a little break to buy lemonade from a boy and his sister at their roadside stand.

Dozens of sailboats were moored along docks on the shore of the Great Salt Pond, a beautiful sight on a hot summer day.

We walked the labyrinth then decided not to pedal on to the restored North Light, but we could see the lighthouse along the shore. The Block Island National Wildlife Refuge encompasses Sandy Point.

Instead, we rode to the secluded Clayhead Beach on the east coast for our picnic and a chance to wade in the cold ocean waves. We were surprised to find starfish among the rocks in shallow water and delighted to discover wild raspberries ripe in bushes along the sandy trails.

By late afternoon, we also decided not to ride past the historic cemetery or the 125-year-old Southeast Lighthouse atop the bluffs. But we could see the majestic Mohegan Bluffs, which rise 250 feet above the rocky coast, in the distance.

Back at Old Harbor, we enjoyed iced tea, salsa and chips at an 1876 bar named “Yellow Kittens Tavern,” then returned my bicycle. We had time to shop, and bought books, a sun hat and a box of saltwater taffy at several charming stores.

All the restaurants serve fresh seafood, of course, and we enjoyed tasty clam chowder and fried scallops for dinner before boarding the Block Island Ferry for the boat ride back to Point Judith and the drive back to Providence.

I often recall my fun day on Block Island, and want to vacation there again soon.

(For more information, call the Block Island Tourism Council at 800-383-2474 or log on to www.blockislandinfo.com.) †